This little drill will fix so many problems related to opening, closing, hinging and flipping the club head during the golf swing. This video assumes you already know the DUPLESSISGOLF setup*.
* If you are unsure about how to setup (precursor for doing this drill), please click here… Ross
I always knew that an active wrist hinge (traditional golf instruction), changed the club face and was not repeatable. This wrist hinge was only done in preparation to throw the club head at the ball for power. Well, you may get a little power from it, but for every action there is an opposite reaction… so essentially… hinge on the backswing, leads to a flip on the downswing. The chances of timing this into a solid, straight golf shot are very small. Plus, when every thing is hinging at the wrists, the radius of the swing is cut in half (the length is only from the wrists, to the club head.
So as my method progressed, I wanted to have a full radius at impact (the front arm in line with the shaft leading the club head), AND use the body rotating as the source of power. I could see this in all other athletic movements (like throwing a ball).
For many years, I taught “passive hands” and “constant grip pressure”. Some of my earlier teaching mentions, the wrists passively hinge and unhinge on their own. This was in hopes that we could remove the inconsistencies of active hinging and active unhinging. These thoughts of passive hands and constant grip pressure, did help improve consistency.
As time passed, many of my students still had the urge to throw the club head and had trouble trying to stop flipping. It then dawned on me that since we want a straight line of the front arm and club shaft at impact, we could setup that way to begin with… then maintain that setup shape using the shoulders only to carry the arms/club to the top of the backswing (Steve Stricker look)… and since there was no change in the wrists, there would be no urge to have to flip to return the shaft in line with the front arm or square the club face back at impact. We could just use the body to unwind, bringing the arms/club back down in front of the body and around to the left (right hander).
Using this concept, I realized we can setup with the shaft in line with the front arm, elbows close together and SET THE WRISTS* (just how we want them back at impact)… then we just maintain that shape (hold the wrists in that shape and pinch the elbows), then use the shoulders only for the backswing. This winds the Large back muscles for a ton of power potential… then we just use the body to unwind.
* Experiment with the amount of grip pressure. Squeeze and hold pretty tight the entire swing and just use your turn to trap the ball…you should hit a nice solid shot via your body rotation not hands.
Power comes from Winding the shoulders first from Top Down, while resisting with the Lower Body. What I mean is… the backswing will use the shoulders to wind the arms and club around the spine, AS YOU RESIST* with the lower body. In other words, holding your lower body still while the shoulders turn first to get a head start. Eventually the hips are pulled over a little from the shoulder turn (the hips do not move on their own or slide at all to the back foot… if you want power you need resistance)…. Now on the downswing you unwind from ground up… start with the hips pulling the arms back down in front of the body as you keep turning. The faster you unwind, the farther the ball goes… just like throwing a ball.
The above paragraph has a lot of good stuff. Once learned, you will hit the ball very far with all clubs. There is no magic trick other than practice and repetition… Ross
*One great way to “resist”, is to keep the back knee braced inward, as your shoulders wind up on the backswing. Try to keep 60% of your weight on the front foot on the backswing. You’ll be able to return back to the ball much easier.