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Tagged: Driver setup
- This topic has 15 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 5 months, 3 weeks ago by Ross.
December 3, 2022 at 5:23 pm #12663
Richard Jun 27, 2014
The game’s come far since I implemented your system…got my first back to back sub 80 rounds last weekend…78 and 79. Gotta try your putting stroke as I missed 5, 6-10 foot birdies!!!
Anyway, with the driver do you set up a little right with the ball ahead of the front foot to allow for the swing arc? I get a bit of a left pull, albeit with a better launch and distance. I hit straight with the ball just inside my front foot but with a bit less yardage.
Anybody else out there experience this?
PS: NO slice…no hook…just dead straight shots, hitting more fairways than ever!!! It’s a beautiful thing!!!December 3, 2022 at 5:23 pm #12664
Ross Jun 27, 2014
You are getting close! By adjusting your alignment to compensate, you get the job done (to put the ball in play), but you’re trading issues. I’m pretty sure the reason the ball goes left, when it is outside your foot, is because your rotation is not continuing to dominate slightly leading the arms/club and the arms/club pass the body sending it a little left. The real answer for you (so you get the distance you want), is to focus on turning more, or faster, or more committed. Like you were going to throw a ball as far as you could… TURN! Don’t worry about hitting the ball, it will get in the way of your commitment.
RossDecember 3, 2022 at 5:24 pm #12665
Richard Jun 27, 2014
Yeah Ross, I just got home from a round and read your responce. I agree and actually kinda figured it out on the course today…no 70’s round, but an 82…last year I was happy to break 90, so thanks for your site and teachings!!!
Anyway, I was watching the tube last night where the talk was all technology teaching, with modern bio-mechanic tools. The talk was how the pros shift the front hip forward 5″, then turn thru the shot…..hmmmmmmm….I feel your system eliminates the need for the “hip bump” by the nature of the set up (weight forward) then turn thru the shot. Had an “AHA!!!” Moment after thinking your video thru, hit it crisp, straight, and in the short grass.
Also used your putting technique for the first time. Had good results and will continue forward with it. Kind of a cool moment, played thru a foresome after they hit on a par 3, I was about 30 feet out, up and down roll with about 3 foot left to right break…drained it thru the side door. Heard 1 of the gents say “what a putt!”. Only big putt made, but ony 1 three putt today. Gotta spend some time on the practise green. You other members, give this a try.December 3, 2022 at 5:25 pm #12666
Ross Jun 28, 2014
Yes, the Pros shift their weight forward 5″, because they let themselves slide to the back foot… but, why?… they just don’t know better. When you know better, you do better. Mostly because it is kind of natural to “step into things” to use your weight going forward, to help propel objects… like throwing. This is great when something is in your hand and you want to move it forward…BUT, in golf, the ball is “Fixed” and we do not get the luxury of sliding off the ball at all or we pay the price in accuracy. We all want to slide back and forth, but we can NEVER be consistent with that move.
Allowing your weight to the outside of the back foot
Hinging the wrists
Rolling the wrists
Lifting the arms
Bending the elbows (really one of the worst problems and least mentioned)
Allowing the hands to take over at any time!
Allowing the arms to help at any time!
Not setting up athletically, balanced (causes a balancing act during the swing)
Using the shoulders Up & Down vs. around the spine (except in putting/chipping)
… okay, I’ll stop. you get the point. Golf is tough enough and the less you can move, the more accurate you’ll become.
What’s more important – Direction or Distance? I’ll tell you that if the ball is straight, you rarely get into problems and protect your attitude. You make the call.
Move Less … Get Good!
RossDecember 3, 2022 at 5:26 pm #12667
Richard Jul 09, 2014
I have been using the Ross move now for 2 months and I feel it is time to weigh in. I switched to this method mainly due to a chronic sore right hip and lower back. I would not be playing golf at this time if not for Ross’s method. I have been playing this game for 35 or so years, always battling the inconsistent contact with the ball. I have never hit the ball so straight and very few fats, and NO PAIN! It does leave me at times due to old habits, but this system works! Turn, Rotate, it is that simple! For me ,I have found that if I force the turn too far, the less consistent the contact. If I allow the arms to fold at all in the turn, it leads to bad contact. It feels strange, but the compression of the ball is so much better. Extend back, extend thru, and ROTATE COMPLETELY to the left. It gets you up on your right toe with all the weight on the left side and the right shoulder at the target. Thanks Ross!
Richard Martens.December 3, 2022 at 5:26 pm #12668
Ross Jul 09, 2014
Thanks Richard. Great to hear how well your doing and with no back pain. I have heard similar back improvement comments in the past. I think it is because we release the back vs. stop and throw the arms across the body… that pulls on the lower back.December 3, 2022 at 5:28 pm #12669
davew Jul 13, 2014
Hi Ross, I have a question regarding whether use of the Ross swing would negate the so called benefits of a driver with adjustable weights in the club head. I say this as I can envisage some benefits to fit the club using a ‘conventional’ 2 lever swing but as with the Ross swing we are trying to keep things constant this, changing weights should not (ideally) infuence the result. Am I correct or would there in fact be an advantage of a driver with adjustable weights? Thanks davewDecember 3, 2022 at 5:29 pm #12670
Ross Jul 13, 2014
My initial thoughts are, …where are the weights placed and why? And, are they also working with in conjunction with some other compensation (closed face, low center of gravity, perimeter weighing, offset hosel) to “help” the golfer?
I would think, these kinds of club head properties, would not play much of a role, if the club head is controlled correctly. We want the shaft in line with the front arm, and club face square at impact, which can be controlled with grip pressure and using the body’s mass/rotation to control the arms/hands/club. I believe the body’s rotation “dominance” would override any compensations in the club head. Now, if the golfer stops rotating and lets the club head go on its own… then anything goes. Weights in the club head, may also affect the golfer using my method that has a light grip pressure and they may “fight” the clubs compensation dynamics, to want to roll shut or stay open.
Sorry davew, that’s about all I can come up with. Hope it helps some… RossDecember 3, 2022 at 5:29 pm #12671
Jimbohaw Jul 28, 2014
Would you adjust how far out in front of your front foot you would tee up the ball if you were trying to hit either a slight draw or fade with your driver? I was playing with this and since the club face is opened in a fade it seem to cause me to hit too high of a trajectory. Would I shorten my normal 4 inch distance from the club head to the ball then?December 3, 2022 at 5:30 pm #12672
Ross Jul 29, 2014
There is nothing in stone on the “4 idea, it is a “starting point”. One of the main benefits to having the ball “out there” is, the golfer now has a freedom to turn to “go after it” via the rotation vs. the hands having to flip to help the ball into the air. It also kind of removes it from view and helps make the golfer turn and trust that the turn will get the job done without the help of the hands. You want to keep the setup shape (flat left wrist, shaft in line front arm, bent in back wrist) “holding” through impact as you ROTATE! You move the ball with your body turn. If you help with the hands, you will usually add loft, and can send the ball right or left.
(This might get a bit technical, but important information to learn)
Now, you can do different things to achieve different results. You can tee it lower. That will catch the ball in a different spot on the club face. Ideally, you want the sweet spot every time. This is also where golfers realize, hummm … this 10° driver, now hits the ball too high because I use to play the ball in the middle of my stance, and was essentially hitting down on every drive (unless I would flip to save the shot). So, the 10° driver now with this method is 12° (effective loft at impact) since the club face is ascending into the ball and launching it (good thing). This is something you want to be aware of… meaning you don’t want to have to tee the ball, to purposely miss hit it, to offset the fact that the loft is wrong. We want to hit the sweet spot, with the ideal loft at impact, for the results you want. PLEASE, experiment with different lofts, and ball positions, before you run out and buy a new driver.
You can put the ball only 2″ in front and pick it up a bit sooner. You want to play around with this.
You can “close or open” the club face slightly before you take your grip. Then, use your feet to line the club face on your target. This should automatically change your foot alignment to accommodate the face (if you opened the face before you took your grip, your feet will be slightly opened to the target… and the opposite if your closed the face.
RossDecember 3, 2022 at 5:30 pm #12673
Jimbohaw Jul 29, 2014
Regarding a fade or a draw with any club – Should I expect added loft when opening the club face (and feet) for a fade? Likewise, should I expect a lower trajectory when I close the face (and feet) for a draw?December 3, 2022 at 5:31 pm #12674
Ross Jul 29, 2014
Yes, the loft does change. Any open/close prior to gripping the club, should be slight changes. Remember, a lot of golf clubs (and I think golf balls too) on the market today, are trying to not let the ball cut or draw with perimeter weighting etc., so you may have that working against you.December 3, 2022 at 5:31 pm #12675
Jimbohaw Aug 07, 2014
Hey Ross. My driver is really becoming more consistent using your set up. I am hitting it straight and about 190-200 yards. I am getting the setup, shoulder turn and pulling my arms around with my body more consistent. Today I concentrated on turning my shoulders a little more quickly while really thinking about resisting turning my hip. All of a sudden I was smoking my drives another 30 yards or more and straight. I can’t wait to just keep adding speed to my rotation and seeing how far this 57 year old will be able to drive it. Your method works and I feel no strain on my body. Wish Tiger would learn your method.December 3, 2022 at 5:31 pm #12676
Ross Aug 07, 2014
Thanks for the nice comments Jimbohaw. Not sure what Tiger needs these days… [confused] I do know, you can only take your “routine” to the course, not swing thoughts. Swing thoughts on the range… then practiced in the routine (a lot!)… then the routine goes to the course… and you “trust it”. He used to visualize his shots… now, he’s visualizing swing positions. Being a teacher I’ve gotten caught up in this kind of thinking with my own game. A more “make golf shots” routine is his “way out” … and his body will remember from past experiences.December 3, 2022 at 5:32 pm #12677
Jimbohaw Aug 07, 2014
One question I had for you regarding my setup for driver. I found that if I take a little more knee flex (still in a balanced, athletics position) I am able to make better and more consistent contact with the ball and brace my hips with my back foot/leg, plus it allows me to keep my chin up more naturally. Also, I pick a spot of grass about 4 inches behind ball and maybe one inch further from me and concentrate on that as I swing (in other words just beyond the club face at address). That really helps me keep my chin up, not slide back, and pull my club around as my body turns through. I don’t stay fixed on that spot past contact but let my body and shoulders turn my head to face the target. What do you think about these adjustments? The slightly deeper knee flex seems to help me with all my clubs. It keeps me from leaning forward, I guess.
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