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Ross Sep 06, 2016
That is an “old school” thought. I don’t teach that, because just keeping the elbows working towards each other, allows the shoulders to control the arms/club. Now, if that works for you use it!Hi Jim
I would say to focus on the front elbow back at impact. Many times it is the culprit. You setup with that elbow pointing back at the front hip, but then on the downswing, sometimes the shaft gets out of alignment with the front arm, and by impact the front elbow is pointing at the target, with the shaft parallel to the target line (this is not right and will need a fix by impact… result, is the face opens (various degrees).When I make the most solid contact through impact, I do not feel like the shaft is parallel to the target line just before impact, I feel like the shaft is still in line with the front arm, going left as I rotate. Not sure if this makes sense, but it again, possibly (your slight fade), has to do with the front elbow in incorrect position through impact.
Ross Sep 06, 2016
I would say in the shoulders. There is resistance in the areas you mentioned, but the shoulders “start” and wind from top down. This way whether you’re hitting 20 yds. or 300 yds. it feels the same. I’d say it is just like a spring. If you remember pinball machines, as you pulled the lever out to strike the pinball, you could feel more and more resistance and you’d stop and let go when you had the amount needed for the job.Ross Sep 18, 2016
The elbows are a bit different for everyone. One thing is for sure, the front elbow must be pointing back at about the front hip through impact. It is better if the elbows stay close or kind of close (if you can), during the swing for more consistency. Again, not everyone is built the same or can do it.It is best to focus on the shoulders moving the arms/club on the backswing. The more you can do this, the more consistent your swing will be… and a bit of a squeeze of the elbows can help keep them in check and help maintain your radius and arm extension.
Ross Oct 08, 2016
I usually don’t talk about equipment, but in general, the stiffer the shaft, the more control you will have, but you might not hit the ball as far (usually a small difference).Wedge shafts are so short they don’t flex much (or very little).
Ross Oct 02, 2016
You don’t focus on the ball at all. We don’t hit at it. I visualize how I want my body to look once finished. Ii see my body controlling my arms/club, all the way to the finish and they all finish together. The ball just happens to be in the way.Ross Dec 26, 2016
Ideally, you would have setup with the back elbow pointing back at the back hip. This puts it in a position, that will already have it pointing down, as you use the shoulders to move the arms/club on the backswing.You may be lifting with that arm or elbow, trying to help on the backswing. If you are, that helping may be pulling the back elbow away from the front elbow into a “chicken wing” (pointing out and behind you) move… then you feel the need to have to get it back or rotate (as you say) it back down.
As far as when the elbow bends… it should happen naturally and it does not bend much. You really should not have to think about it if the shoulders are doing their job. Then on the downswing, the back elbow is still slightly bent even at impact… so if you’ve straightened it out before then, you’re using your back hand … or the arm is doing it on its own. The back hand pressure should not change until after impact.
If you focus on the shoulders controlling the backswing, the arms/club/hands just go along for the ride. Takes practice not letting the hands/arms help, but the results are a much more consistent golf swing.
Hello Rene’
There are no players that I know of that use my entire method. My instruction has been on the internet since 2004 and on YouTube since they started, with thousands of views daily. Hard to know who has watched and learned.Ross Jan 05, 2017
I guessing adding your left hand is changing the shaft some, and changing the overall grip pressure. The arms must hang and the wrists should not be tightening and changing the shaft angle. I like to feel the back wrist “bent in” and holding the shape, then I add the front hand to just complete the circle. If the grip pressure is too tight, the shoulder(s) can’t do their job. The shoulders must be able to move freely.You don’t want to sacrifice missing the sweet spot, even if it goes straight. You must hit the sweet spot every time for distance control.
Ross Jan 05, 2017
Gripping down is not an issue. I do it all the time with all clubs for a variety of results. You don’t really lose much distance, but do gain more control.I would not add weight. There is no benefit and may make you hinge.
Hi Mike
(your “how much sand” question)
Every bunker shot is different . It depends on the lie and the conditions and kind of the sand. There too many situations a to mention. You could be in very soft sand and buried… all the way to hard-pan or no sand to speak of, sitting right on top. How much sand you take, depends also on how you want the ball to come out and react. How much sand also depends on how much bounce you have on your SW, and how much you’ve opened/closed the face. The more you open it, the more it slides through the sand vs. closed which creates a “dig sole” and pulls the face down into the sand to help gouge it out.(Your “hit ball first” question)
In general… you hit ball first (if you can), when you’re farther away for a clean hit… but once you’re too close to the green, you hit sand first, use the sand to “lift” the ball out. If it is hard-pan you still want to hit ball first with a square face, or the club will bounce off the hard-pan into the ball an skull it.Ross
Ross Jan 10, 2017
Not sure. Everyone is a little different and depends on the width of the stance when/where impact will be. You want it to feel solid and just past the bottom of the arc on the up swing for end-over-end roll. The worst is to hit down on the putt (ball hops). At the bottom, the ball slides before rolling. Again, I think slightly on the up swing for perfect roll*.* This also assumes your shoulders are parallel to your intended path, and the putter is 90° to that path. Dave Pelz had an easy way to see if your shoulders are aligned, but letting your arms hang and pointing your thumbs towards each other, then rocking your shoulders. This will show your your shoulder path… and it better be parallel to the target line.
Ross Jan 09, 2017
Yes. All you’re really doing is aligning the shaft of the putter with the front arm vs. a bent in front wrist. This is just something to try and experiment with. The ball must be forward, like just inside the front foot so you’ll hit on the upswing. Not sure how this will work for left hand low. Key is no flip… shoulder(s) onlyRoss Jan 31, 2017
Sorry brooster, I don’t use the term “stay down”. I don’t know what it is used for, because the word “down” implies a “downward” movement of some kind, and we don’t have that in my method.I guess if someone is coming up and out of their tilt, I might use, “Stay in your setup position” or “Stay Athletic” or “Turn your shoulders around your spine” or “Maintain your spine angle” until your back shoulder touches your chin* on the downswing.
I have used, in the past, “stay behind” if someone is sliding forward or coming up and out too soon on the downswing.
* Doing this must not restrict the body’s rotation in any way… like the worst tip ever “keep your head down”. The head must follow the shoulders up and out just after impact. The body unwinding from ground up, must be UNINTERRUPTED, accelerating to the finish!